![]() I doubt any accessories (taper, milling attachment, collet draw bars etc)other than basic tooling would be interchangeable between a SB and an Atlas. I think I have an old Atlas brochure I can look to see what power options were available on that line anyhow. Ebay also had lots of parts available but also expensive in my opinion. I would rather have a good condition South Bend.Ī few years ago I could still buy many new parts for my Atlas 618 from Clausing/Atlas in the states. (Don't know why my text has changed colour)Ītlas are good lathes and a very nice starter lathe if in good shape. If it looks like an Atlas lathe then I think you are safe too assume that it is an Atlas under the Craftsman name. There were however similar sized lathes also with the Craftsman badge on it that were not made by Atlas and we're inferior to the Atlas Craftsman. I had a small 618 Atlas lathe which was also available with the Craftsman name on it. Last edited by David Utidjian 06-01-2009 at 02:47 AM.I'm no expert so take my info with a grain of salt, but I will try not to tell you any bs. The manual calls that bearing a "safety valve" (sheesh.) the damn thing is designed to break that part. My Rockwell 10" has instructions for making the shear pins in the manual.*/ĮTA: Ignore everything between the /* */ above I just looked it up in an Atlas manual I have. ![]() The shear pin would be at the other end of the leadscrew and is usually even easier to replace. Most lathes in that class have shear pin. ![]() I am not familiar with the Atlas/Craftsman lathes but I would hope that it has a better method as a "fuse" for the leadscrew than breaking the bearing bracket. If you have a 4-jaw chuck you could even make it on your lathe. I would fuss and make it from cast iron with bronze bushings. *It looks like it would be pretty easy to make one from a solid block of cast iron or bearing bronze. ![]()
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